These lamps take some juice! Beam adjustment will come next, per Daniel Stern’s website how-to, or maybe not. I’m glad I converted to a Powermaster alternator a few years ago. A whiter light than the yellow light from the sealed beams, too. Low beam light increased over 60% and high beam light increased over 200%. I used an iPhone lighting app as a crude way to compare light intensity before and after this upgrade. So I purchased some heat shrink insulated flag terminals on eBay and wired directly from the relay. I didn’t care for it.too much uninsulated exposure. ![]() Jumper wires with uninsulated flag terminals are provided to connect the lamps to existing or new headlamp connectors. Typical H1 connectors will not work on these lamps. The 2 male terminals are the smaller 1/4” variety and are at a right angle to each other vs parallel. The Hella lamp connection terminals are different than on the Koitos and my sealed beams. I took my time, made several trips to the hardware store for this and that (grommets, screws, paint, etc.) but overall the project went very well. 2 apparently had been replaced previously by a PO and their holes were already larger. I also had to enlarge the holes in 2 of the four buckets. During disassembly I discovered a little rust on the headlight buckets which I cleaned up, sealed and repainted. A buss bar that I installed previously near the battery was a convenient source of power. To minimize power losses I used only 10 and 12 gauge wire () for all wiring except trigger wires. This connection was used with a 2-pole flat connector jumper wire from Tractor Supply to trigger the relays. Original car wiring included a 2-pole flat connector near the passenger side headlights. The relays clip together so only one mounting hole was needed. I mounted the relays behind the battery using a convenient unused hole in the inner fender wall. I also purchased a good crimper on Amazon and new adjustment screws and nylon inserts from Pat Wilson’s. The Koito H4’s and Hella H1’s look a little different side-by-side but acceptable to me. ![]() ![]() At Stern’s suggestion to help keep the cost down, I purchased Hella H1 high beam lamps and bulbs in a kit from Amazon. Since the high beams will be used rarely and to save some expense I planned initially to keep my old bright-only sealed beams but when I received the H4 Koitos the flatter lens face made too much difference in appearance. The relays each have 2 output terminals, one for each lamp, so splicing is minimized. I purchased from him a 3-relay kit with connectors, fuse holders and terminals for a 4 headlight system and 2 Koito H4 (hi-lo) lamps and 2 Tungsram bulbs.his recommendations. His website was helpful in setting up my system. He is very knowledgeable about how different types of headlights and brands of headlamps and bulbs compare. I could have used halogen sealed beams but I read and heard how poor they are quality-wise from consultant Daniel Stern who has quite a good reputation in this area. ECE (European) H1 (high beam) and H4 (high-low beam) halogen lamps were selected for better lighting. A test confirmed the voltage drop between the battery and headlights of almost 20%. I read here and elsewhere about the benefits of using relays to decrease power loss through the small, old, lengthy run of wires and switches. Since my car is driven at night occasionally I wished to improve on my old sealed beam headlight system. Following is a treatise (sorry it is so long) on my headlight conversion, provided for the information of anyone attempting this work.
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